Difference: TrackWork (11 vs. 12)

Revision 122023-07-09 - PeterSchmid

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Intro
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Intro
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Prototype
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Prototype

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HOn30 Tracks

HOn30 Tracks

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HO / HOn30 Tracks

 

Rails

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Tips
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Tips

Tools needed

  • Moto tool with a cutting disc or alternative needle files (Swiss files) and lot of patience
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  • Jewelers Saw
 
  • Regulated Soldering iron e.g. from Weller
  • Fretsaw
  • Wire cutting pliers
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How To Scratch Build a Narrow Gauge Standard Gauge Crossing
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How To Scratch Build a Narrow Gauge Standard Gauge Crossing

As far as I know there is no commercial narrow gauge standard gauge crossing available. It takes me about 4 h to build a "diamond" from scratch. You need only only some code 70 rails and PCB cross ties.

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How To Convert an Atlas N Code 55 Turnout to HOn30
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How To Convert an Atlas N Code 55 Turnout to HOn30

Commercial available HOn30/H0e/009 turnouts from Peco, Tillig, Technomodell, and Roco have too heavy rails (Code 80/83) and too wide angles (15 °, less than #4). You can build the turnouts from scratch, but for me it is difficult and to time-consuming to build the heel of the switch (especially the hinge) and the frog. The N code 55 turnouts from Atlas are available with frog numbers #5 and #7 (for details see http://www.atlasrr.com/Trackmisc/ncode55.htm). Code 55 #5 turnouts are exactly what I am looked for. They cost about $10 each. The only thing you have to do is to replace the small plastic ties with larger PCB ties.

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Build a Switch with CVT Turnout Ties

There is nothing wrong with the Turnout Kits from Central Valley Model Works, they look fantastic, but I want an electrified (non-isolated) frog and a reliable throw rod (throw PCB tie). Therefore I need only the CVT Turnout Ties and not the Turnout Kit.

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CVT Switch Kit #2571, #5 LH Code70
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PCB throw bar, switch point and hinges
cvt-switch-frog-1.jpg
Frog isolation gaps
cvt-switch-primer-1.jpg
Turnout painted with Tamiya Surface Primer spray

  1. Notch the stock rails (I use the StockAid tool form Fast Tracks)
  2. Glue the straight stock rail to the ties
  3. Bend the curved stock rail till it fit to the tie plates and glue it to the ties
  4. File the frog point rails (I use the PointForm tool from Fast Tracks) and solder the halves together
  5. Glue the the frog point to the rails
  6. File the point rails (I use again the PointForm tool from Fast Tracks)
  7. File or saw a notch into the straight closure rail, bend the track (it should be parallel to the frog point rail), cut it to the length and bevel it, glue it to the ties
  8. Bend the curved closure rail til it fit to the tie plates
  9. File or saw a notch into the curved closure rail, bend the track (it should be parallel to the frog point rail), cut it to the length and bevel it, glue it to the ties
  10. Remove 6 plastic ties and the head tie
  11. Solder the PCB ties to the rails, do not solder the inside of the second switch stand tie
  12. Solder the throw PCB to the switch points, but not on the stock rail side
  13. Cut gaps to isolate the frog. I use a jewelers saw
  14. Cut the rail base and part of the head (but not the rail web) to build a hinge
  15. Solder the guard rails to the PCB ties or glue the plastic guards to the ties
  16. Glue the rail-braces to the ties

 
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Bibliography
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Bibliography

  1. Paul Mallery, Trackwork Handbook, Carstens Publishing, ISBN 911868-86-0
    THE reference for trackwork. If you want to buy only one book about trackwork, you should buy this one. Subtitle Everything You Need to Learn to Know About Track
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