Difference: CarWorksForney (1 vs. 5)
Revision 52020-05-05 - PeterSchmid
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I could not resist and bought a Car Works Forney. But this beautiful model does not perform well. | ||||||||
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| < < | Stoner Creek Miniatures sells a remotoring kit for the Car Works Forney (Sandy River & Rangeley Lakes #5). It is not cheap (about $130 incl. shipment), but it is worth the money. It consists of a coreless micromotor with gear head (Faulhaber, swiss made) and flywheel. They suggest to glue (epoxy) the motor to the frame. For my opinion it is better to use a double-coated foam tape e.g. from Scotch (mine is about 1.5 mm thick). It is more flexible and easier to adjust or remove. The also delivered rubber tube for the driveline did not fit the gearbox, and it is to long anyway. That's why I used a NWSL u-joint 483-6. | |||||||
| > > | Stoner Creek Miniatures sells a remotoring kit for the Car Works Forney (Sandy River & Rangeley Lakes #5). It is not cheap (about $130 incl. shipment), but it is worth the money. It consists of a coreless micromotor with 4:1 gear head (Faulhaber, swiss made) and flywheel. They suggest to glue (epoxy) the motor to the frame. For my opinion it is better to use a double-coated foam tape e.g. from Scotch (mine is about 1.5 mm thick). It is more flexible and easier to adjust or remove. The also delivered rubber tube for the driveline did not fit the gearbox, and it is to long anyway. That's why I used a NWSL u-joint 483-6. | |||||||
| The power pickup should be improved as well. I built an additional power pick up with bronze wires à la Backwoods Miniatures. The pickup on the left side has to be isolated from the chassis. I solved this with a thin (0.2 mm) bronze sheet metal (4 x 2.5 mm). I glued (5 min. epoxy) a paper shim between chassis and the sheet metal for isolating. You have to solder to the wire before glueing the paper. | ||||||||
Revision 42019-01-04 - PeterSchmid
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| I could not resist and bought a Car Works Forney. But this beautiful model does not perform well.
Stoner Creek Miniatures sells a remotoring kit for the Car Works Forney (Sandy River & Rangeley Lakes #5). It is not cheap (about $130 incl. shipment), but it is worth the money. It consists of a coreless micromotor with gear head (Faulhaber, swiss made) and flywheel. They suggest to glue (epoxy) the motor to the frame. For my opinion it is better to use a double-coated foam tape e.g. from Scotch (mine is about 1.5 mm thick). It is more flexible and easier to adjust or remove. The also delivered rubber tube for the driveline did not fit the gearbox, and it is to long anyway. That's why I used a NWSL u-joint 483-6. | ||||||||
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Revision 32018-12-27 - PeterSchmid
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| < < | Remotoring Car Works Forney (Sandy River & Rangeley Lakes #5) | |||||||
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Remotoring Car Works Forney (Sandy River & Rangeley Lakes #5)
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| I could not resist and bought a Car Works Forney. But this beautiful model does not perform well.
Stoner Creek Miniatures sells a remotoring kit for the Car Works Forney (Sandy River & Rangeley Lakes #5). It is not cheap (about $130 incl. shipment), but it is worth the money. It consists of a coreless micromotor with gear head (Faulhaber, swiss made) and flywheel. They suggest to glue (epoxy) the motor to the frame. For my opinion it is better to use a double-coated foam tape e.g. from Scotch (mine is about 1.5 mm thick). It is more flexible and easier to adjust or remove. The also delivered rubber tube for the driveline did not fit the gearbox, and it is to long anyway. That's why I used a NWSL u-joint 483-6.
The power pickup should be improved as well. I built an additional power pick up with bronze wires à la Backwoods Miniatures. The pickup on the left side has to be isolated from the chassis. I solved this with a thin (0.2 mm) bronze sheet metal (4 x 2.5 mm). I glued (5 min. epoxy) a paper shim between chassis and the sheet metal for isolating. You have to solder to the wire before glueing the paper. | ||||||||
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 This work by Peter Schmid is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. | |||||||
-- PeterSchmid - 2012-06-13
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Revision 22012-08-06 - PeterSchmid
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Remotoring Car Works Forney (Sandy River & Rangeley Lakes #5) | ||||||||
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| > > | I could not resist and bought a Car Works Forney. But this beautiful model does not perform well. | |||||||
| Stoner Creek Miniatures sells a remotoring kit for the Car Works Forney (Sandy River & Rangeley Lakes #5). It is not cheap (about $130 incl. shipment), but it is worth the money. It consists of a coreless micromotor with gear head (Faulhaber, swiss made) and flywheel. They suggest to glue (epoxy) the motor to the frame. For my opinion it is better to use a double-coated foam tape e.g. from Scotch (mine is about 1.5 mm thick). It is more flexible and easier to adjust or remove. The also delivered rubber tube for the driveline did not fit the gearbox, and it is to long anyway. That's why I used a NWSL u-joint 483-6.
The power pickup should be improved as well. I built an additional power pick up with bronze wires à la Backwoods Miniatures. The pickup on the left side has to be isolated from the chassis. I solved this with a thin (0.2 mm) bronze sheet metal (4 x 2.5 mm). I glued (5 min. epoxy) a paper shim between chassis and the sheet metal for isolating. You have to solder to the wire before glueing the paper. | ||||||||
Revision 12012-06-13 - PeterSchmid
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Remotoring Car Works Forney (Sandy River & Rangeley Lakes #5)Stoner Creek Miniatures sells a remotoring kit for the Car Works Forney (Sandy River & Rangeley Lakes #5). It is not cheap (about $130 incl. shipment), but it is worth the money. It consists of a coreless micromotor with gear head (Faulhaber, swiss made) and flywheel. They suggest to glue (epoxy) the motor to the frame. For my opinion it is better to use a double-coated foam tape e.g. from Scotch (mine is about 1.5 mm thick). It is more flexible and easier to adjust or remove. The also delivered rubber tube for the driveline did not fit the gearbox, and it is to long anyway. That's why I used a NWSL u-joint 483-6.
The power pickup should be improved as well. I built an additional power pick up with bronze wires à la Backwoods Miniatures. The pickup on the left side has to be isolated from the chassis. I solved this with a thin (0.2 mm) bronze sheet metal (4 x 2.5 mm). I glued (5 min. epoxy) a paper shim between chassis and the sheet metal for isolating. You have to solder to the wire before glueing the paper.
-- PeterSchmid - 2012-06-13
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